Day 22 - Chop Chop Square

15.5.09 - This week-end has been action-packed (by our standards). Early on Thursday (to get the most done before 12 o'clock prayer time), I was picked up by Marina (and her driver), and we headed to one of Riyadh's many Souks. Marina is Iraki, married to an English man, and they have lived here on and off for 11 years. She has a larger than life personality, and is a force to be reckoned, as I discovered later on. She had jewellery to sell and commission and so we headed off to Dirrah, the Gold Souk right next to 'Chop Chop Square'. This is where, I was shocked to find out, public executions still take place. Anyone can go, including children, and I've been told for some it's a family outing. The only rule: no photos.  Who would want to go and watch someone having their hands or worse their head chopped off I can't imagine, it makes me sick just to think about it, but foreigners do go, and are pushed up right to the front. I think the locals like to see if they will faint or not. However,  the crime rate in Saudi, is one of the lowest in the world. Food for thought. 

Chop Chop Square

Marina took me under her wing and I was quite happy to follow in her shadows while she busied herself with her various dealings. We stopped at a few jewellery stores, mostly owned by Arabs from Yemen (Yemenise?) all of which she knew by name.  She embarked on her negotiations, which I observed she handled with a powerful blend of humour, assertiveness, charm and patience, with a pinch of Diva-like behaviour. Quite amusing. But patience is key, and the negotiations can wear you down (that's the strategy). A deal can take hours (i'm told). And so it's highly recommended to come here 'off peak', ie. week-ends.  

Meanwhile, I was quite taken aback by the casual manipulation of various gems - rubies, emeralds, saphires, left lying on the counter, or casually picked up and carried away. Crime is very low here (thanks to Chop Chop Square) so there is literally no security, cameras, alarms, security guards. nothing. The stores are wide open and the atmosphere is very relaxed. There was much talk about Saudi Diamonds, and when one of the owners casually picked up from a display a diamond the size of a ping pong ball, my heart skipped a beat, surely not, this cannot be one I think it is, I know Saudi is a rich country and has many natural resources, but diamonds that big? Later, when I researched this, it turned out that Saudi Diamonds are in effect Crystal. Such a novice!

Marina and I having a snack in between Souks, 

blissfully unaware that I'm breaking the law by showing my ankles. 

Most of the things we saw - furniture, cloths, pashminas, jewellery, carpets, all seems to come from neighbouring countries. Apart from Rosewood furniture, and some of the gold, i couldn't find much that originated from Saudi which I found a little disappointing. But this is just one small part of a myriad of Souks, so I hope to go back and explore further. 

We made it back to the car just as 12 o'clock prayer started, and headed back to Eid (our compound) which involved the usual double car sequence, ie. we stop at outer security gate, get out and wait for compound car to take us in (only residents are allowed to bring their cars in).